fume coffin pre-filter

I developed and built a smoke coffin.
The air outlet filter of the laser cutting machine to help filter the exhaust gas discharged by my 50 W CO2 laser cutting machine.
This new structure is an optional add-
About the project of fume coffin.
The exhaust of my laser cutting machine has successfully filtered the design of the smoke coffin, and the cost of the main consumables is quite reasonable.
But service Pre-service is not easyFilter.
In the original design of the fume coffin,
The inside of the cylindrical HEPA filter is equipped with a filter.
Entering it requires opening the smoke coffin and removing the HEPA filter assembly.
This project has been replaced (or supplements)
Crude smoke coffin pre-
Filter with embedded Pre-
Designed as an easy-to-monitor filter (it\'s see-through)
Convenient service. The Pre-
The filter is the first filter element encountered by laser exhaust. The Pre-
The role of the filter in the system is to capture large particles and to protect the HEPA filter from contamination and sticking together. But the Pre-
The filter quickly got dirty. The Pre-Low filter usage
Cost of fiber filter cloth.
Its purpose is to provide services on a regular basis, just like every week or two. The new Pre-
The filter is completely modular.
It just inserts the exhaust chain before the smoke coffin. The Pre-
The filter consists of two parts-
Lower plywood filter frame and clear acrylic outer cover.
It is designed to hold a piece of 15 inch
Wide filter cloth on frame with air hole.
The acrylic lid is then placed on the fabric and frame and is tightly fixed in the appropriate position.
It has a filter cloth between 15 and 15 in size. 5 inches wide.
The material must be at least 21 inch long.
Therefore, the standard 15 by 24 inch filter cloth can be installed.
3-meter air-conditioned cloth (Amazon)
Or duck air conditioning cloth (Amazon)
Two examples, about $8 to $10.
Long filter cloth can be cut by size.
The base is made of 5mm plywood and the outer cover is made of 5mm clear acrylic.
It uses two \"dry docks\" 4-
Pipe Port (inch)Amazon)(Home Depot)
Easy and quick disassembly and re-disassemblyassembly.
It is also designed to cut all major parts using laser cutting machines instead of traditional woodworking tools.
The design was created in Fusion 360.
This model is available here.
It can be downloaded in Fusion 360 and other CAD formats.
I have included the DXF file for plywood parts. (
I also included the AI version of the internal panel as my laser cutter control software was unable to use complex polygon patterns in the DXF file. )
Cut the following parts from both
5mm plywood with smooth sides.
* = The dxf version does not work in the laser cutting program.
Assemble plywood parts from the bottom panel.
I assemble the panel with a hot glue gun or wood glue.
Before gluing, check the installation and assemble the panel.
Before gluing, make sure to mark the direction and the outer surface.
Insert and glue the internal vertical panel and the internal horizontal panel.
Insert and glue 2 lower lip panels.
When the joint can still be bent, assemble the left panel to the end.
Make sure all seams exposed externally are well sealed.
Hot glue seals the air well.
But you can also use silicone.
LaTeX caulking sealant (e. g.
DAP Kwik Seal Plus).
Be careful not to leave large pieces of glue on the inside of the lips, where the top of the acrylic will attach. (
It is not difficult to remove hardened hot glue or caulking agent with putty knife. )
Finally, assemble the right panel at the other end.
Cut acrylic top panel and two side panels with laser cutting machine.
You will glue acrylic panels and pieces with acrylic cement (TAP).
Cement is laid on the top and side of the square.
Make sure to place the top panel at the top of the side panel and flush the edges.
Make the glue seam hard. Acrylic end-lips and hold-
Downs is a bit tricky when cutting and installing the finished plywood base.
The acrylic lid must be easily disassembled. (
This is the whole point of this explanation. )
My original design required each end
The lips are a piece of acrylic (endLip_acrylic. dxf).
However, I found it easier to adapt to the terminal
Attach three acrylic sheets to the top and side of the acrylic (see photos).
These pieces were cut from two pieces of endlip02 _ acrylic.
There is 1 in each of the Endliptop03 _ acrylic. dxf.
Use a piece of 5mm plywood scrap to cement one side of the lip assembly in place as a fixture for the top and side acrylic components to extend part of the spacing.
The lip assembly on the other side needs to be installed to match the actual size of the plywood assembly.
Position the lip with enough games so that the finished acrylic lid assembly can be easily removed.
I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut and grind acrylic parts to meet the needs.
When applying acrylic cement using capillary action, I fixed the acrylic resin in the appropriate position using a small trigger clip. The hold-
The lower part extends the length of the cover and fits into the side lip area.
They firm the filter cloth against the lower plywood assembly. The hold-
The down part may need to be trimmed to fit. (
I used the Dremel tool again. )
Cement held-
In the right place.
The dry dock pipe port helps disconnect and reconnect the exhaust pipe.
The dry dock consists of two parts--
A part with 3 screw holes on the flange;
There is no screw hole in the second part.
The dry dock part connected to the acrylic cap assembly must be trimmed to fit as it will impact the plywood filter and hinder the exhaust air flow.
There needs to be a large air gap and filter cloth between the dry dock and the plywood frame.
Insert dry dock parts with screw holes from the outside into the acrylic cover Assembly.
Place the painter\'s tape around the port section that extends to the acrylic box and mark a line about 3/8 from the flange, where you will trim the port, so that it enters the box just past the lid about 1/8.
Trim dry dock parts on straight lines with Dremel tools and cutting wheels or hacksaw.
Insert the trimmed dry dock into the acrylic assembly.
Add silicone beads-
If the flange is not tight, there is an acrylic filler at the flange.
I fixed the dry dock port in place using 3/16 stainless steel rivets, but the small nuts and bolts also work.
Make sure that the rivets or bolts do not extend above the countersunk holes of the drydock flange.
Place another dry dock on the plywood assembly.
Important note: the dry dock must place screw holes at 2, 6 and 10 points.
If you place a dry dock in another way (
Hole at 12: 00)
The screw hole will touch the plywood filter frame.
Marking and drilling of 3 rivets or bolts.
Connect the dry dock with rivets or bolts.
Pre-assembly completed
You need 6 filter elements of 3/4/1/4
20 thread buttons
Head bolts and 6 1/4 each-
20 threaded wing nuts.
Place bolts from inside to outside into the holes on the plywood lips (
Bolt Head inside).
I added a drop of hot glue on the lower side of each bolt head to loosely secure each bolt head in the appropriate position.
To help create a rough rubber surface for the filter cloth, I placed a hot glue bead on the edge of the inner plywood filter cloth frame and allowed it to harden.
I also ran a circle of hot glue along the side of the air hole on the frame.
Stretch the filter cloth on the filter frame, such as the 3m Filtrete Air-conditioned cloth.
Center the cloth so that the number on both sides is equal.
Place the acrylic cover on the plywood frame and leave a few inches in front of the bolt.
Screw the filter cloth into the gap between the acrylic cover and the holdowns.
The filter cloth should be inside the acrylic cover.
Ground evenly on the cover so that the acrylic cover can be placed on the lips and the bolts can be placed in the slot of the acrylic cover.
The lid should be installed all the way down and there should not be a gap greater than 1/16 around.
Screw on the wing nut.