leaf air purifier mods - silent air purifier

The Mod a Leaf air purifier, smarter, faster airflow, and higher water spray will make it work harder and cooler.
These mods are invisible in addition to the calm water mod, and once the unit is reinstalled they leave the field of viewassembled.
The calm water MoD uses a transparent plastic pipe in the water, which makes it more difficult to detect.
I'm used to taking things apart to see how they work, and sometimes improvement is a result.
I think it's a neat design, a spout pumping out the water, spraying it out where it hits the lips, turning it into a fine spray, and then spraying down the side of the bowl.
In the process of water lifting, the fan draws the air into the device by water spraying, so any particles in the air are sprayed into the bowl of water by tiny drops of water.
My new Leaf air purifier is running non-
Stopped for 8 hours, but that's not the only reason to take it apart, and I also wanted to see how it works, and I suspect that's the phrase I 've been using since birth.
Mods are simple plastic cuts, whether it's a sharp knife or a dremmel with a cut-off wheel.
The opening on the coil is cut to allow airflow, because the coil generates more heat than the coil generates.
After cutting the opening and be careful not to cut any wires or fingers, Block 5 square openings with foam rubber blocks in order to pass all the airflow through the stator and coil openings.
Cut the foam large enough to firmly wedge them at the opening, do not block them with silicone sealant, you may need to access these labels in the future to remove it.
Do not plug the air outlet rings of the square holes, they are the basis of the working principle of the equipment.
The impeller operates clockwise, throwing air outward, but a large part of the air spills over the top of each impeller blade, which can be fixed with a simple plastic tray glued to the top of the impeller blade.
I use the lid of the yogurt tub, use sandpaper to burnish it and let the glue stick to it, and the 40mm inner opening is the air inlet.
I felt that the original slot was too small and didn't spray the top water on the disk to hit the outer lip, so I added a few more slots of my own, here, I used dremmel as well as triangular files and hacksaw blades and the water flow on the side of the bowl was significantly larger.
Ironwave's comments prompted this increase, and what it did was to isolate the central rotating mouth from the water body to form a very calm surface.
This is a simple plastic dam that prevents the waves that roll inside the water bowl.
The maximum water level is about 60mm high, so I used a plastic strip 70mm wide and 180mm long.
Fix it in a bowl using 5mm tabs and still leave a 5mm partition above the water surface.
I wrapped the plastic on a 45mm diameter salt grinder, welded in stock with a soldering iron, and there was a small 5mm diameter hole near the bottom that allowed the water to flow to the central Dam.
I used double initially-
Fix the plastic dam in a bowl with tape, but it's too easy to loose.
A better solution is the transparent silicone shower gel.
The last photo is the view seen from below the water surface when the device is turned on, showing how calm the outer water surface is.
For a better measure, I also put a drop of oil on the motor shaft bearing and put everything on trial run to make sure that no vibration would not spill the water into the bowl properly.
If any foam fragments fall off, then they make some noise on the top of the disc, but should not block the rotor.
I think opening the slot at the top will add further airflow, but it may reduce the overall look if it is not done neatly, which is why I put them aside.