is the air gap really needed for dishwasher? - where can i buy an air purifier

Q: The inspector who checked the house we sold reported that the dishwasher needed air
Clearance device on the drain line.
The problem is that we don't have a place to install the air gap because the holes on the back edge of the sink are used for the water purifier.
Instead of installing air gaps, our handyman installed a check valve in the dishwasher drain hose under the sink, but the home inspector said it did not meet the specifications.
The handyman said that the air gap is as effective as the check valve, even if it is high
Loop drain lines can be used to prevent return-siphonage.
The inspector again disagreed.
It's a bunch of confusing terms for us.
At the same time, the people who bought our house insisted that the issue should be corrected with approval.
How do we solve all these contradictory technical suggestions?
Answer: Your question covers some questions and misconceptions about the dishwasher drain line.
Let's take one at a time: * the air gap is usually shown as a small chrome cylinder common on the rear edge of most kitchen sinks.
This is the plumber's defense.
A return device to prevent sewage from returning to the dishwasher.
Your inspector suggested that it is correct to install the air gap.
Despite the alternatives, only one air gap has been approved by the pipe specification, as this is the only way to ensure that it will work in all cases.
* Check valve is also a counter
The return device also prevents sewage from entering the dishwasher.
The problem with the check valve is that it is not foolproof.
If a piece of food is stuck in a check valve, the valve may be permanently stuck in the open position, thereby undermining its function as a protective device for health and safety.
Therefore, the code does not allow the use of a check valve as an alternative to the air gap. * The high-
The circuit method of installing the dishwasher drainage hose is a common method for workers and old plumbers.
This method can effectively prevent the back
But only with subwoofer. pressure, low-
The sewage is flat-ups.
When the sewage is returned under pressure, or when it is returned
Reach the height of the edge of the sink, high
The loop method is invalid and will allow the original sewage to flow into the dishwasher.
If your sink does not have the available holes to install the air gap, plumbers can usually drill holes where they are needed.
Another way to provide holes is to replace the standard type of sink faucet with a column
Type faucet, faucet with no rectangular mounting plate at the bottom.
Without the mounting plate, two holes will be exposed at the edge of the sink.
One of them can be used for air clearance;
Another can enable soap dispenser or manual installationsprayer.
"Water hammer": no BiteQ all barking: a loud noise is heard on the wall whenever I turn off the shower tap.
Even if I was on the other side of the house, I could hear the knock on the wall when others used the shower.
According to the inspector who inspected our house, this may cause damage to the water pipe.
I don't want to spend money on plumbers unless absolutely necessary.
Do you think I have a serious problem?
A: The thum you said slammed, commonly known as "water hammer ".
"This usually happens when the pipe is loosely attached to the wall, especially in the home where the water pressure is high or the air is trapped inside the pipe.
When the tap is suddenly closed, the immediate stop of the water flow will clog the pipe due to a sudden increase in pressure.
When this happens, the loose pipe will hit the wooden frame inside the wall, causing sound.
In most cases, water hammer is nothing more than a minor hassle and is unlikely to cause any major plumbing problems.
If you are willing to put up with the noise, you can save yourself a repair fee.
If you want to minimize knocking, lowering the water pressure through a pressure regulator can help.
The regulator can usually be installed for about $100.
To assess your particular circumstances more specifically, a licensed plumber should be consulted.
The computer needs to be grounded: My home was built in 1958 when the power socket was not grounded.
When I purchased the property last year, my home inspector mentioned that this could cause problems with my computer, but I have been using surge protectors to make up for the lack of the site.
I don't worry about grounding because I think my system is protected.
It turns out to be an expensive assumption.
Last week, the power was "cooked" My computer despite the surge protector.
Could you please explain why the surge protector did not save my system?
A: computer users usually think that surge-suppression devices can provide unconditional protection from power accidents.
What every PC user should know is that the inhibitor is not a magical device.
They can't let the power surge simply disappear.
The law of thermodynamics states that energy cannot be created or destroyed.
It can only change from one form to another.
For example, electricity can be turned into heat when you grill your computer.
When a high traffic suddenly
The voltage electricity enters the wire in your home, and in order to prevent fire or other damage, it must be delivered to a safe place.
The purpose of the surge suppression is to upload and output the power from the computer.
This is achieved by sending the excess voltage to the Earth through the ground wire.
If the ground wire is not provided, the surge inhibitor is useless.
Residential buildings built before 1963 usually do not have ground sockets.
Anyone using a computer at home in this era should consult an electrical contractor.
However, ground defects can be found in families of any age.
All that is needed is a minor wiring error during construction.
Therefore, it is a wise precaution to verify grounding for all outlets serving the computer.
It's time to abandon the service panel lock. The home inspector who checked our House advised us to remove the padlock from the electric service panel.
We used to live in
Before we started making sure the group was safe, there was a series of problems in the area of crime.
What do you think of locking the electric board?
A: In big city areas where safety issues are prevalent, padlocks are usually used on electric service panels.
However, for the sake of general safety, electric panels should remain accessible, meaning they should be unlocked in case of emergency.
If a circuit breaker needs to be reset on dark and rainy nights, you won't want to look for a misplaced key.
If an emergency, such as a fire, needs to be powered off, it may be critical to enter the main circuit breaker immediately.
Any questions about any aspect of the family check?
Sent to Los Angeles Times Barry Stone at 540 Atascadero Road, Morro Bay, California, Zip code: 93442.
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