how to make any home appliance into a solar electric hybrid - home appliance manufacturer

The following are the five basic parts of the system: 1.
12 v solar panels (
Or other renewable energy)2.
12 V Rechargeable Battery 3.
Control Circuit 4.
12 v power inverter 5.
The automatic switch circuit is installed, and the solar panel, battery and inverter are inserted into the control circuit.
The automatic switching circuit is plugged into the inverter and wall socket.
The device is then plugged into the automatic switching circuit.
Solar panels, batteries and inverters can be purchased in the following casesthe-
Shelves from different locations.
The last two parts of the system (
Control circuit and automatic switching circuit)
Construction will be needed.
This is a detailed step later.
The solar panel I use is the 5 watt model of the port freight company.
But you can use smaller panels or larger ones.
The only difference is that the power output determines the speed at which the battery is charged and the frequency at which the system is activated.
The only guideline to follow is that you don't want the panel to generate more energy than it is used in a day.
This will waste energy.
Keep in mind that solar panels can be replaced with other power supplies.
Wind and bike generators can also work well.
They only need to be able to charge a 12 volt battery.
You have some deals when choosing battery
Think about it.
When the battery is charged and slowly discharged, the battery is more efficient and has a longer life.
It is best to minimize the depth of battery discharge.
As a result, larger batteries will provide better performance.
But larger batteries are more expensive and take up more space.
As part of the solar electrical system, deep-cycle batteries are better able to withstand regular charging and discharge.
But deep-cycle batteries are also more expensive.
I'm using a 7Ah battery to power the a13 W CFLlamp in my Finch aviary.
This seems to work.
If you are confused about which battery to buy, it may be helpful to consult a battery specialist at a local store.
They should be able to recommend a battery for your application and budget.
The power inverter converts the output of the 12 v dc battery to 120 v ac to power household electronics.
I am using the 80 W model of the port freight company.
The most important requirement of your power inverter is that it must be able to supply power to the equipment continuously (s)
You want to run.
The inverter usually lists its maximum rated power with continuous power and peak power.
In general, in order to avoid overheating, you want to keep a little bit at the limit of continuous.
Control Circuit material: printed circuit board (276 of Radio Shack-170)2x Diode (276 of Radio Shack-1103)+5V Fixed-
Voltage regulator (276 of Radio Shack-1770)555 timer IC (
276 of Radio Shack-1723)
Mps222222a transistor (276 of Radio Shack-2009)IRF510 MOSFET (
276 of Radio Shack-2072)
100f 15 v capacitor (optional)2 x 0.
1f 15 v capacitor (optional)2 x 10K-Ohm 15-
Rotary metal ceramic potentiometer/Trimmer (271 of Radio Shack-343)100-Ohm Resistor (271 of Radio Shack-005)330-Ohm Resistor (271 of Radio Shack-012)1K-Ohm Resistor (271 of Radio Shack-004)
12VDC/12vac 10A SPDT mini relay (275 of Radio Shack-248)
12VDC vehicle power accessory socket (270 of Radio Shack-046)
Engineering enclosure (6x3x2")(270 of Radio Shack-1805)2 x bolts (1/4 "or smaller)2 x nuts (1/4 "or smaller)
2x1/4 "fully insulated FemaleQuick disconnected (Radio Shack 64-3133)2 ft.
X16 cable jumper WiresOptional chargecontrolermaterials: Diodes276 of Radio Shack-1103)555 timer IC (
276 of Radio Shack-1723)0.
1f 15 v capacitor (optional)
Mps222222a transistor (276 of Radio Shack-2009)IRF510 MOSFET (
276 of Radio Shack-2072)2 x 10K-Ohm 15-
Rotary metal ceramic potentiometer/Trimmer (271 of Radio Shack-343)100-Ohm Resistor (271 of Radio Shack-005)330-Ohm Resistor (271 of Radio Shack-012)1K-Ohm Resistor (271 of Radio Shack-004)
12VDC/12vac 10A SPDT mini relay (275 of Radio Shack-248)
Tools: soldering iron and soldering tin screwdriver multimeter curling tool (
For quick disconnection)
Bit and bit stripping cutter parts replacement: I chose these parts because they are easy to access (
The most popular Radio Shack).
However, all of this can be replaced with other parts with similar values.
You can usually find cheaper ones online.
4 10 k 15-
A single-turn potentiometer or a fixed-value resistor can be used instead of a turn-fine-tuning potentiometer.
I chose these potentiometer because they are easier to fine tune when calibrating the circuit.
For better performance, the input diode can be replaced with a schottky diode.
If your solar panel has a built-in blocking diode, it can also be omitted.
Basic control circuit design this circuit is a modified version of the charging controller circuit designed by Mike Davis (
In the original circuit, when the voltage is too high, disconnect the battery from the solar panel using the 555 timer IC (
To prevent it from charging from moving).
In my design, when the battery is fully charged, the control circuit connects the battery to the inverter and the output circuit.
Here is a brief description of how the circuit works.
The 5 v voltage regulator supplies power to the 555 timer IC and sets its internal reference voltage.
A pair of potentiometer (
Variable resistance)
Set to a voltage divider to provide the timer IC with a signal proportional to the battery voltage.
These signals determine the scope of the system.
With the rise and fall of the battery voltage, so is the output signal of the potentiometer.
When the signal at pin 6 rises above 3.
3 V, the output of the IC is lower and the relay is activated through a series of transistors.
When the signal at pin 2 is less than 1.
6 V, the output of the IC is higher, so that the relay stops working.
By setting the position of the potentiometer, you can determine the voltage of the battery to activate and deactivate the output.
Alternative design using a charging controller this setting usually does not require a charging controller.
If the output of the solar panel is small relative to the storage capacity of the battery, and you are powering devices that are often turned on, so you don't have to worry about overcharging the battery.
However, if you want to use a charging controller, you can connect a charging controller between the solar panel and the control circuit.
I also provide an alternative circuit design that includes the charging controller built into the control circuit. (
You can view a larger version of the image by clicking on the image to zoom in once.
The second click on the image takes you to the image page, where you can select "original" for the larger version ")
It is a good idea to preset the potentiometer before assembling the circuit.
This will prevent a lot of trouble shooting later.
As shown in the figure, the value of the potentiometer should be set to the following value: pin 2 connecting to the wiper and on track: basic control circuit of 8600 Ohm design potentiometer with 1400 ohms between the wiper and the negative rail.
Potentiometer connected to pin 6: 7200 Ohm between wiper and track, 2800 Ohm between wiper and negative rail.
An optional charging controller potentiometer connected to pin 2: 8700 between the wiper and the track, and a potentiometer between the wiper and the negative rail.
Connect to pin 6: 7500 between wiper and track, pin 25 00 between wiper and negative rail.
These will not be the final calibration values.
These are just the convenient starting points for you in the ball park.
The final setup will depend on the specific battery you are using and the range of work it recommends.
When making final adjustments, it is helpful to use a power supply with an adjustable voltage regulator such as LM317T (276 of Radio Shack-1778).
See the following steps for an example.
If you are unable to use the adjustable power supply, it will take a little time to adjust the value and check with a multimeter while the system is running. (
You can view a larger version of the image by clicking the image in one zoom.
The second click on the image takes you to the image page, where you can select "original" for the larger version ")
Before soldering the circuit to the printed circuit board, always the original circuit on the bread board.
In my bread plate prototype I included an adjustable voltage regulator so I could quickly simulate the charging and discharge cycles.
This makes it convenient to calculate the final adjustment of the potentiometer.
If you are using the same board as me, you can copy my layout.
The Pcb takes a little longer than this circuit.
To trim the excess, use a sharp knife to pass a line through the board through a column of holes and break along the line.
Automatic switching circuit material: Engineering shell (3x2x1")(270 of Radio Shack-1801)
25vac/10A DPDT plug-In Relay (275 of Radio Shack-217)
8x1/4 "quick disconnection of fully insulated mother (Radio Shack 64-3133)
1 full extension cord with male head and female head 1 power cord with male head only (
Preferably different from the color of the extension cord)
Tools: wire stripping tool (
For quick disconnection)
Knife or Zhuo er (
For cutting the shell)
There is only one main part of this circuit: the double-pole double-throw relay.
It is wired in such a way that it automatically switches the output whenever the inverter is powered on.
To achieve this, the input line from the wall socket is connected to the normally closed contact, and the output line to the application is connected to the normal contact.
The input line from the inverter is then connected to the coil and the normally open contact.
When the device is inactive, your device will be connected to the wall socket as usual and powered by the grid.
The only difference is that it is via relay.
But when the device is activated, the inverter opens and supplies power to the normally open contacts and coils.
This switch relay.
The device is disconnected from walloutlet and connected to the inverter.
This is how the switch circuit automatically switches to a renewable power supply when it is available.
First cut the extension cord into two pieces.
The parent end will be the output line inserted into the device.
The male end will be the grid input line inserted into the wall socket.
The second power cord will be the input line inserted into the inverter.
You may want to select a power cord for the Inverter line that is different from the color of the other lines.
This helps to prevent confusion of lines.
You can tag them.
Cut off part 3 inch of the end of the inverter power cord.
This will be a jumper between the coil contact and the normally open contact on the relay.
Peel 1/2 of the insulation from the end of all wires.
As shown in the figure, screw the exposure of the inverter power cord with the 3 inchsection you just made and curl them into a pair of quick disconnects.
Crimpfast then disconnects all remaining wire ends.
Connecting the output line (
Parent end of extension cord)
To the public terminal.
Connect the grid input line (
Male end of extension cord)
To the normally closed terminal.
Finally, connect the first group of quick disconnects on the inverter input line to the coil terminal and connect the second pair of quick disconnects to the very open Terminal.
Solar panel connection point I have clips at the end of the cable on my solar panel.
So I decided to use the Bolt as the connection point on the control circuit housing.
For this I found a pair of bolts and nuts that fit in with the clip.
Then I drilled the hole on the side of the shell a little smaller than the Bolt and screwed the bolt into the hole.
The NUT is turned to the bolt inside the shell.
This will make the wire connection point inside the shell.
The hole of the wire because so much quick disconnection is used on the wire that enters the project housing, it is inconvenient to feed the wire into the housing through drilling.
Instead, I found it easier to cut small slit on the side of the shell where two and a half are combined.
Do this for all the wires that go through the wall of the shell.
The DC power outlet hole used to control the circuit is drilled or 1 3/32 hole is cut on the side of the shell.
Since this is a strange size, you may need to drill a 1 "hole and widen the hole with a file or knife.
Plug the DC power outlet into the hole.
If it can't fit closely, you can fix it in the proper place with glue.
Because a solar system is the most active in the middle of the day (
A lot of people at work)
Initial testing and observation of the system at work may be inconvenient.
To solve this problem, you may want to use a DC power supply instead of a solar panel for preliminary testing.
The easiest and cheapest way to do this is to use the andc power adapter.
Find a power supply with a working voltage of about 12 V.
Open voltage (no load)
It's usually a little higher.
The exact type is not important.
There may be a suitable DC power adapter around your house.
If the power supply does not have a stable output, you may want to add a capacitor between the positive and negative terminals.
Connect the positive pole of the power supply to the positive pole of the control circuit and connect the negative pole to the negative pole of the control circuit.
This will charge the battery and function like a panel, but not dependent on the sun.
This can make trouble shooting for montior performance and initial settings more convenient.
Before assembling all the parts of the system together, be sure to test them separately.
Connect the fixture on the solar panel to the bolt on the control circuit housing.
Then connect the input lines on the control board to the bolts inside the housing, tighten the nuts to secure them in place.
Connect the battery line on the control circuit to the corresponding battery terminal.
Be careful not to confuse positive and negative wires!
You may want to tag them or color code them.
Connect the output line on the control circuit to the DC power outlet.
Be sure to connect the positive line to the center pin and connect the negative line to the outer cylinder.
Once everything is ready, close the case and screw it together.
Connect the inverter by plugging the inverter into a DC power outlet.
Put the automatic switching circuit into the housing and turn it off.
The inverter power cord is then plugged into the inverter.
Plug the device into the output line.
If the battery is fully charged, the device.
There should be motivation.
Finally, plug the wall socket power cord into the wall socket.
Look carefully at all parts of the system to make sure nothing makes any strange sound, smell or fire.
If not, you have a solar hybrid adapter that functions properly.
Last Note and warning the operation of the device includes periodically cutting off the power supply and switching to a second power supply, which may be out of phase.
Therefore, production may fluctuate.
This is especially true if your switch circuit uses a relay with a low activation voltage.
In this case, the relay may switch before the inverter runs at full power.
For simple devices like lights or fans, there is no problem with this brief fluctuation, but it may cause problems with sensitive electronic devices.
So choose your appliance carefully.
I'm not responsible if you blow up your computer.
The biggest problem with future design improvements to this design is that once the battery is fully charged, the device will start.
This is not necessarily consistent with when the device is turned on.
The relays and inverters will still consume power even if no appliances are turned on.
If you power a device that is turned on from time to time during the day, this can waste power.
In future designs, I will combine the various parts of this project into a unit with a sensor to determine when the device is on.
Only after the appliance is turned on will the control circuit activate the relay and the inverter.
This will help ensure less power waste.
I would also like to add something to the circuit to smooth the output of the system to avoid the power fluctuation mentioned above.
This may be as simple as adding a time delay on a switching circuit.
Please leave a comment and let me know if you have any suggestions for improvement.