Electronic Wart Removal - No Blood! Little Pain. - best at home skin care devices

Over the years, I have had problems with body resection.
The results were spectacular. I have tried most of the "normal" methods, Burning -
It turns out that steam is not good for you.
I also have a scar on my hand, a chemical compound that the doctor gave me in my childhood --
Freezing with liquid nitrogen-Dr. Scholl's freezing and even Doctor's freezing surgery (freezing).
I just can't do 'Wack-it-
The off' method seen on some Instructable.
There is still nothing to remove condyloma acuminatum permanently.
For years, I have been trying to build a circuit that I have seen on the Internet.
Declared: nearly 100% effective, even large warts body.
The circuit is very effective and has the most difficult condyloma acuminatum to remove on the hand.
There was almost no discomfort in the process, and there was no shock.
This is Thomas Scarborough's "pizzapper".
As requested by the webmaster-I will not print the schematic or their PC board here. (
They are wrong and it doesn't work anyway!
I will only show my corrections here.
You have to go to their website to find the remaining track. )
You can find a similar circuit here for Thomas ScarboroughAnother Zapper that is heremounware wart zapperAnd if you just want to buy one, see: wartabaterThe body of the bar Zapper is great.
List the history of the electronic LEDs and how the circuits work.
I doubt it!
An electronic circuit on the Internet, should be able to remove the warts body-and then run with a 9 volt battery?
Freezing surgery is being used by professionals (freezing)
If this method does work, why don't professionals use it as well?
The circuit is very simple, but I haven't been successful for years because it's hard for me to find parts from one source-even though I'm cheap, I don't want to pay twice for shipping.
So that's what it's been like for a few years, and my downsides are getting bigger and bigger, and in my mind there's a circuit that "might" work-still not made.
I'll try some other methods like Dr Scholl's way of freezing and try to make this a little bit smaller.
I also went to the doctor's office but there is still nothing to get rid of them.
Sometimes I hide the big ones with bands. Aid.
I finally got it!
The Warts are getting bigger and bigger.
I can't stand it anymore.
Whether you doubt it or not-I have to see if it works.
I found that I can get the required parts through Jameco Electronics.
Jameco does have some minimum orders, but they are for smaller items.
So it's still cheap Radio Shack. (
There are other sources;
I just found it a bit easy for Jameco to use their website).
I will only give the part number on the part I can't look around.
Part 1 copper clad plate (2. 25" x 1. 8").
I still have a big chunk of this stuff.
Battery with 1 9 V PP3 "Matchbox" battery11801 battery clip-
Or fit case with internal battery terminals s1 panel-off switch.
I found a great one on an old toy fire truck.
About 189141 suitable ABS plastic case. (4. 875" x 2. 5" x 1")1 1 meter (1 yard)
Plastic Shielding Wire for electrodes.
I'm using a shielded audio coaxial cable.
I used the shield of the conductor. 1 15 cm (6")
Long brass tubes for dispersing electrodes.
I use the "diameter copper pipe from Los (hardware store).
1 tip off
For active electrodes.
I used a tapestry needle.
Tips have been rounded up-no filing is required!
1 etching PCB, etching agent if required.
The price of Radio Shack is about $ month. (
See structures for some cheaper methods)
1 semiconductor device 1 6. 8 v Zener diode (¼-
Watt is enough)1 Green LED (no other color)
151247 4 1N4148 signal diode 670207 1 IRF610 power "logic" MOSFET (
Or IRF510, BUZ11, BUZ22)
511401 7555 month k sfp cmos timer icrestors6 90865
Watt carbon or metal film 691260 1 47 k-
Watt carbon or metal film 691104 1 10 k-
1 470 k or 500 k potentiometer, linear taper of carbon track.
I really don't need this.
I keep driving it all now.
1 knob for potentiometer.
Steal from some old equipment at work.
680pF polyester or ceramic152722 Capacitors332427 100nF (. 1 uf)
Polyester or ceramic255412 220nF (. 22 uf)
Polyester or ceramic 944321 100f electrolytic 16 v or higher. Including shipping, the parts are only about $23.
A little bit more extra parts.
With the search, you might do better.
I haven't made any PC boards for about 10 years, so I want to try a "free" PC board maker.
These programs are mainly for those who want to order the Motherboard over the Internet and make and deliver it.
This way you get very professional boards.
I wish I could print out the artwork of the board at home and make it here.
It's a little unprofessional, but it's fun to do.
I still have some transfer pages left last time (Press-n-Peel PnP-Blue, TEK-5)
So I want to give it a try.
I decided to use the presspcb and the prespressch for this show.
Why, I downloaded it a few years ago and never tried it.
These programs can help you draw a schematic diagram and then create a PC board.
Expressch is very convenient because it allows you to check your PC board connection against the schematic diagram.
I want to do my own design for PC board.
I don't like that one in this article because I really hate the jumper on the board and I need it in the box I get.
I made a board with this program and it did print out in the right direction for transferring the page.
I'm ready.
I read a great PC board and made an instructable and I wanted to give it a try.
Sponge iron chloride method-
Etching the pcb in a minute!
Fortunately, I quickly read the article a few weeks ago.
The day I needed it-my internet connection was broken.
But I tried it anyway. It worked.
Not as fast as a minute, but since I didn't read it again, I'm sure I did something wrong.
Great board out!
I installed all the components and connected the power and ground to the battery.
As stated in the article, I checked if the operation was correct.
Remember, I doubt it.
I use DVOM and oscilloscope.
I found that the oscillator is running, but the output voltage is only 4.
5 V instead of the "more than 26 V" mentioned in the article ".
There's a problem!
I never liked the look of the "three layers" section in the schematic.
It doesn't look right for me, it doesn't draw well.
I have never really been good at multiplier circuits so I have to do some research.
I found this scene: This scene shows the voltage doubling circuit through the voltage quadruple device.
It's wrong for me to compare the original circuit.
After redrawing the circuit, I can tell that C4 is not connected properly.
The PC board shown in the article is also wrong!
The left side of C4 should be connected to the other side of C3 and not to IC1 pins 3 and TR1-g.
This is the correction part of the schematic diagram.
All other lines are the same as the original article. This also seems to be a voltage quadruple device, not the triple device described in the article.
To verify this, I will leave it to someone who knows more about electronics.
Fortunately, making this change on my original board is a simple rewiring.
Power the circuit with an output voltage of 27 volts!
I took some glaze and sealed the copper side of the board.
I have corrected my PC board files and included them here.
These are in the format of ExpressPCB and expressch.
I attached the PC board to the bottom of the box.
Add switches, LEDs, and pans to the lid and attach them together.
I used an old mechanical pencil.
I removed all the mechanical parts.
A larger opening was drilled for the needle.
Weld the probe and stick it together according to the length of the probe I want (about ½” long).
Use a little foam at the top as a strain remover.
The picture of the box and probe is here.
Let me start with one of the little warts.
I put the copper tube under my arm and pushed it down for good contact.
I couldn't feel anything for the first 30 seconds, and then there was a severe heating pain.
But as the article says, "You have to endure the pain until it's gone ".
After about 3 minutes, the pain subsided significantly, and the sore looked different.
The probe pierced it, and some "white" Cats, like internal organs, ooze and bubble next to the probe.
I opened the probe for 5 minutes.
There has been a change in sarcoma.
In the next two processes, I repeat the process and save the big one to the end.
For the next 8 hours, I can feel where I am treating condyloma acuminatum.
This is very similar to using a freeze method.
A day later, the two smaller ones turned black.
The larger one is not so dark.
I treated the big one again a few days later, as the article says, "… More treatment is likely to be needed.
"The big ones have started to fall off so far, and it looks very successful.
The two smaller ones are still black and one has a big hole in the center.
I think they can spend less time, maybe 3 minutes?
So it looks like it works!
I have started treating other people who are at all stages of "recovery.
If I don't get all the first, I know that getting the rest is a quick treatment.
This circuit does more than the last three "real" circuits.
The professional treatment I have used.
As for the pain you encounter, you really have to make a little face.
Only once did I jump in the first pain.
This is like the feeling of sticking yourself to it with a needle.
Knowing that the pain will pass and is necessary makes it more acceptable.
I believe the degree and intensity of pain is smaller than any "free" method I use.
I can't seem to feel where I have treated condyloma acuminatum now.
Feel like an hour or so at most.
Now the output of the battery may be a little lower.
Please read and comply with all safety precautions listed in the article!
I am not responsible for any accidents that have occurred.
They are generally: Do not put the probe (both)
When the current flows from one probe through the head or heart to another, it is used during pregnancy, either by the person using the pacemaker, or by anyone with a history of epilepsy.
All in all-don't be stupid!